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Do-It-Yourself Bedbug Control

 

Okay, let's make this clear up front: If you decide to try do-it-yourself bedbug control, you probably will fail. You'll probably just waste a whole lot of time and money on equipment and chemicals, and at the end of it all you'll wind up calling a professional exterminator, anyway.

Because of their hardiness, small size, and secretive habits, bedbugs are among the most difficult pests to control. Effective treatment often requires that pairs of exterminators spend several hours of painstaking work per room to make sure that all potential harborage areas are identified and effectively treated. So seriously, consider calling a pro.

That being said, I'm tired of getting angry emails from people because there's no section about do-it-yourself bedbug control on this site. Very well. Here is is: Scarafaggio's Guide to Do-It-Yourself Bedbug Extermination -- delivered with the disclaimer that even if you do everything suggested here, there's no guarantee that your efforts will be successful.

 

Identifying a Bedbug Problem

Bedbugs and droppings in a mattress seamThe first step in treating a bedbug problem is making sure that you actually have one. The first sign is often the bite marks or rashes on your body or the small blood stains on the sheets; but these can be signs of other skin problems, as well.

A definitive diagnosis of a bedbug infestation is best made by, well, actually finding some bedbugs (or at least their droppings). This can be easier said than done because bedbugs can hide in the tiniest, most hard-to inspect places.

Some places to look for bedbugs include:

You get the point. Look everywhere.

 

Treating for bedbugs

Once you've determined that you actually have a bedbug problem, the first thing to do is plan your battle. The most important thing to consider is the severity of the problem. If you have had one or two bites and found a bedbug or two, then maybe you've caught the problem early, and maybe you have a chance of being one of the few people to pull off DIY bedbug control successfully.

But if you have more than a few bites or have seen more than a few bedbugs (or if there is other evidence of a more extensive bedbug problem, such as odors or droppings), then please do yourself a favor and call an exterminator.

Still here, huh? Okay, then let's look at do-it-yourself bedbug treatment.

Step One: Read

Not being one to reinvent the wheel, I've found two good guides for you to start with before attempting your bedbug control adventure. Please download (and read) both the Bedbug are Back brochure from Cornell University (if Cornell's server is down or busy, you can also download it here), and the Armed Forces Bedbug Control Guide (also available here in the unlikely event that the military's server ever goes down).

Now read both of those publications. I'll wait until you're done. twiddling thumbs

Finished? Good. Now download, read, and preferably print Scarafaggio's own Bedbug Treatment Preparation Sheet, which simplifies the pre-treatment tasks into checklist form.

Step Two: Get Your Stuff Together

Your chances of successfully solving your bedbug problem are better if you use the right insecticides and equipment.

The first thing you're going to need is a high-quality insecticide sprayer. It needs to be capable of a pressure of about 40 psi, and of producing both a pin-stream and a fan- or cone-shaped spray. If you have a classic B&G sprayer used by exterminators for the last zillion years, great! Otherwise, the Chapin Premier Pro #1253 should do nicely.

You're also going to need a bulb duster. I recommend the B&G Bulb Dust-R Model M1150 because it has a plastic tip, which is important when working around electrical outlets and fixtures.

You'll also need a couple of screwdrivers, chemical-resistant gloves, safety goggles, and an Organic Vapor/P95 Respirator.

Next, you'll need some chemicals. You'll need a gallon jug (or more) of a liquid spray labeled for bedbugs, like Scram Commercial Bed Bug Spray, which is all-natural and smells kind of nice. You'll probably need a bit less than a gallon per room, but it's impossible to say because, obviously, your room is different from my room. If you live in a small room with no carpeting and no furniture except the bed, you'll need much less. If you live in a huge room, have a lot of furniture, have multiple beds, or have carpeted floors, you may need a bit more.

You'll also need one vial of Gentrol Concentrate for every gallon of spray. Gentrol is an insect growth regulator that disrupts the development of bed bugs into adults. It is not labeled for mattresses, however, so we won't use it on the mattress (more about that later).

Finally, you'll need some Drione Insecticide Dust. (If Drione is not available, then Delta Dust is a good substitute.) The Drione dust is a mixture of a desiccant dust with pyrethrin and piperonyl butoxide. It's considered a relatively non-toxic (but irritating) product. But if you prefer a desiccant dust that does not contain any insecticide, consider Diatomaceous Earth, but expect the results to be a lot slower.

You'll also need a good flashlight and a stepladder. Finally, you'll need bedbug-resistant mattress covers in the size(s) for your bed(s).

Step Three: Prepare

Refer to the checklist you downloaded here and printed (thought we forgot about that, huh?)

Step Four: Treat All the Electrical Stuff

Find the circuit breaker panel for the room and turn off all power to the electrical outlets, switch plates, lights, and anything else electrical in the room. Then take your trusty flashlight and check to make sure everything's dead. Plug a lamp in the outlets and make sure there's no power, turn the lights on and make sure they don't come on, etc.

Electrical Outlet with Cover RemovedNext, put on your respirator and goggles, take your trusty screwdriver and your bulb duster, fill the duster about half-full with Drione, and go around the room removing all the electrical covers and puffing a little dust into the walls around all other electrical boxes, as shown in the picture. Do the same with the ceiling lights, as well.

You just need little puffs. Don't go crazy with the Drione. Be careful, and try to keep the dust inside the walls. Drione's not especially toxic, but it's irritating.

While you're going around the room, puff a little dust into any cracks or holes that penetrate through to the wall and ceiling voids. Be careful not to get any dust in heating or air-conditioning ducts. When you're done, reinstall all the outlet and switch covers and turn the electricity back on.

Step 5: Spray Everything in the Room

Put on your chemical-resistant gloves, respirator, and goggles, and carefully pour the gallon of insecticide into the sprayer.

Pump up the sprayer and set the tip to the fan or cone setting, and lightly spray the mattress(e), but only the mattress(es). Pay special attention to seams, tufts, and so forth. Be careful, but thorough. A light spray is enough. You don't want to saturate the fabric. If you do, then you are over-applying the product.

Now unscrew the pump from the sprayer to bleed out the pressure, remove the pump, and pour the vial of Gentrol into the sprayer. Screw the pump handle down snugly, and swirl the sprayer around a bit to mix the two chemicals. The reason we did the mattress first without the Gentrol is because Gentrol is not labeled for use on mattresses.

With your sprayer still set to the fan or cone setting, pump it back up and spray the box spring and any other upholstered furniture in the room (except for the mattress, which was treated already). Be thorough and even, and pain attention to crevices; but if you saturate anything, you are over-applying.

Next, set your sprayer to the pin stream setting and spray the cracks and crevices in the room, such as those around the baseboards and trim. Also treat the bed frame, headboard, footboard, and furniture, taking care to get the insecticide into every single crack, crevice, and joint. Don't miss a single one. Don't forget the closets!

Next, set your sprayer back to the fan or cone setting, and spray a band of insecticide about a foot in from the corners along the walls, floor, and ceiling, where they meet each other. Finally, if the room is carpeted, spray the entire carpet, backing your way out of the room as you go. This will mean moving furniture out of the way so you can treat under it.

Step Six: Let Everything Dry

This can take three to six hours, depending on the temperature and humidity. You can use the time to think about how much easier it would have been to just call an exterminator.

Step Seven: Cover the Mattress and Box Spring

Once they're thoroughly dry, encase the mattress and box spring with your bedbug-resistant mattress covers, and then make them up as you normally would. Put all the furniture back in place, and hopefully you're done.

 

I suggest that you not move all of your clothing and such back into the room for a few weeks, until you're sure that the bedbugs are gone. Leave your stuff in the bags or bins in an uninfested room, and only take out what you need, as you need it. If there's still no evidence of bedbugs four weeks after the treatment, pat yourself on the back and consider the treatment a success.

 

Other Bedbug Treatment Issues

Bedbugs can literally get into almost anything, and some of these things can be hard to treat. For example:

Electronic Equipment

Bedbugs often get into electronic equipment like computers, televisions, radios, telephones, video games, and so forth. These items can be difficult to treat because, obviously, they cannot be sprayed with liquid insecticides. The two most commonly used treatments for bedbug-infested electronic equipment are heat and fumigation.

Books and Papers

Books and papers are often infested by bedbugs, and are most often treated using heat or cold. Sustained temperatures of over 120° F. are needed if heat is used. For cold treatment, sustained temperatures colder than -5 degree F for at least a week are needed to treat books, and the exposure to cold must be sudden, not gradual. Commercial freezers are capable of sustaining these temperatures, but few home refrigerators are.

Toys

Toys that become infested with bedbugs can be treated with heat, cold, or sometimes thorough washing. If a toy can be completely submerged and soaked in hot water (at least 120 degrees F) with detergent for a few hours, the chances are that any bedbugs in it will die. Plush toys are best discarded, but if your children simply cannot part with them, you can try washing them in detergent and tumbling them in a hot clothes dryer for a few hours.